Promoting Freedom for Creative Architecture
Shower curbs are small barriers designed to keep water contained within a standalone shower enclosure, and should be constructed according to building code regulations. They're an important element of your shower experience and should be designed and constructed accordingly.
Install silicone under the drain flange and around the outside of the curb, cutting a liner flap at each corner and covering it with metal lath to protect it from puncturing.
Ultimately, a shower curb liner serves as an additional waterproof barrier and should be installed early in the project before any final mud bed and tile installations take place. As tradesmen arrive to do their work it can become easily punctured which leaves your shower not watertight.
An effective shower liner installation will prevent water from seeping underneath the curb and flooding into the framing. In addition, it keeps all of the liquid within the shower area so the waterproofing membrane has time to cure properly.
By choosing a preformed curb with built-in bonding flange drain and surface-applied waterproofing system (see TCNA Handbook methods B421 and B422), it is possible to eliminate the need for a liner at the curb. Be sure to confirm compatibility of this product with your waterproofing system - otherwise leak paths could form that result in tile failure and fungal growth.
A shower curb prevents water from running down the walls into the mud deck, as well as keeping its position away from areas where children might walk.
Wooden shower pan curbs are typically constructed using two-by-four lumber cut to suit the height of your shower opening and then fastened securely to your subfloor via nails or screws. You could also create your curb out of concrete.
Pre-formed corners or patches from scrap pvc liner can easily be purchased or made yourself for easy installation. Be sure to fold it back around a wall bolt for a neat installation!
Metal lath is often used to support mud deck at shower floors and curbs. Available in various sizes and types - diamond lath, dimpled lath or ribbed lath - speciality metal lath can also be found for applications like stucco/plaster walls as well as extended rib lath for ceilings.
Dependent upon your construction method, different materials can be used at a shower curb. Wooden curbs are commonly made using lengths of 2x4 wood attached together by screws and nails to form a form; deck mud is then applied before an even thicker scratch coat of mortar is put down on top. As Sunrise Specialty notes, for optimal results use thicker than normal concrete mortar in order to adhere properly with mesh underneath it.
Some companies offer pre-formed shower curbs made of expanded polystyrene or high density foam, providing an economical option for large projects involving many showers. If selecting this route, make sure the moisture barrier material (PVC pan liner, sheeting or painted-on membrane is optimal), is compatible with what material your curb is made from and coat it accordingly - PVC pan liners with cement backer boards or liquid membrane paint may also work - just ensure its compatibility.
The shower curb (also referred to as a barrier or dam) is the component you step over when entering and leaving your wet area, serving as the first line of defense against potential water damage. Construction should adhere to building code standards when creating one.
A shower curb can be made out of many materials and finished off with ceramic, natural stone or glass tiles to suit individual homeowner preferences. Additionally, it may be lined with waterproof sheet or pan liner and covered in liquid moisture barrier coating for added moisture resistance.
Tiling a shower curb can be accomplished with relative ease by any DIYer, provided they are equipped with the appropriate tools. Before beginning installation, ensure you have at your disposal: a level, flat trowel and hammer. Next, apply an 1 inch layer of cement or mortar inside of the curb and press down firmly with a straightedge to make a thin layer on its interior surface - allow this layer to dry for at least an hour before moving onto its exterior application.
